Day 3 - Inversnaid to Crianlarich

Loch Lomond very still this morning

Breakfast at 8 and I was walking by 9am.  The terrain was more of what I’d experienced for the last couple of miles on Day 2.  Rocks, roots, scrambling about. There was even a step-ladder to climb at one point.  

After a mile or 2 I passed Rob Roy’s Cave (or at least the sign).  Last year I went and had a look and, I have to say, I was unimpressed.  I’m sure he could have found a much better cave if he’d set his mind to it.  It also has “Rob Roy’s Cave” painted in huge white letters with an arrow, for the benefit of the boats that bring tourists to see the spot.  I bet the guides describe the cave as being much better than it really is.

Now spoiled by tourism ........

Challenging terrain

Shortly after this point I met a guy and his son who were doing 2 days walking, from Inversnaid to Crianlarich today, and then onto Bridge of Orchy tomorrow.  They did the first 33 miles last year and they aim to do the final next year.  3 years to complete the West Highland Way ??!!  I felt quite smug thinking I was doing it in 6 days.

Eventually we arrived at Ardlui and from here the path improved massively.  We moved away from the loch shore and rose high up above water level.  The pace increased and we soon passed Doune Bothy and before we knew it we were in Beinglas.  I stopped for a quick drink and to fill my water bottle whilst my companions headed off to the Drovers Inn for their lunch.

Falloch Falls

I resumed my walking, alone now, and followed the track up alongside the Falloch, passing the impressive falls.  There was plenty of climbing along this section as my destination for the day was at the top of the Falloch Glen, on the watershed between the Falloch and the Fillan rivers.  I passed quite a few walkers who were fully loaded with gear and who were finding the climb challenging. 

Friendly local

Near the top end of the valley the path went through farm land and here I experienced the muddiest section so far of the WHW.  At several points I had to hop from stone to stone to avoid being ankle deep in mud.  Here I met a couple of guys – Aaron from London (he was given Elvis Presley’s middle by rock’n’roll parents) and Lukas, a young Swiss who’d just decided on a bit of a whim to do the Way.  No real plans for accommodation, just a desire to hike to Fort William.  Kids these days, never properly organised.  We chatted for a while and then Aaron headed off for Tyndrum to camp whilst Lukas and I dropped down to Crianlarich.  He headed for the youth hostel and I carried on to my hotel. 

Looking back towards Loch Lomond

Sheep creep under the railway line

On the way to the hotel I got chatting to a Scot named John.  He was running the Way over 6 days and had just finished his stint for the day.  We talked for quite a while and then Angela came down the hill.  She’d chatted to John earlier in the day and was staying at the same hotel as me.  We agreed to all meet up for dinner, along with Lukas who I’d told to find me at the hotel once he’d sorted the youth hostel out.  We had a great evening, eating, laughing, talking and sharing stories before all heading off to our beds ready for another tough day of walking/hiking.

It’s probably the thing I love most about this walk, just meeting and chatting to people from all over the world, from all walks of life and where the one thing you have in common is that you’re all doing the West Highland Way.